Travel Guide: Quedlinburg

A very old, very dear friend came to visit, which is a rare occurrence in my life. We’ve met up in multiple countries over the last decade, based equally on where I’m living and where he’s travelling for work. This visit was particularly special because I was able to introduce my partner and show off where I plan to spend the next long while; it’s never been like that before.

In keeping with our mutual enjoyment of adventure, the three of us headed off Saturday morning for a night in Quedlinburg in the neighbouring state of Sachsen-Anhalt. The town is located in the Harz, which I’d heard about but never seen, and was an incredibly important medieval trading hub. It is also charmingly known for gatherings of witches. There are signs of former wealth all over town today, as evidenced by the castle, cathedral, and multiple churches.

I’ve been in many European cities of many sizes, but I have never seen anything quite like this. The half-timbered houses and other buildings were intricately designed, the brickwork in patterns . . .

. . . the lines of the buildings were not quite straight . . .

. . . and some of the homes were built for much smaller people than exist today. We noticed that a great many homes in the old town are now holiday apartments , seemingly owned by local people but a sign that, like many other places, the town no longer has the kind of life that it once did.

The multiple squares, for example, were a sure sign of the commerce and wealth that existed here . . .

. . . and alleys of varying sizes, including some so tiny that only one person fit through at a time, were a nod to the town’s over 1,000-year-old history.

As always, we climbed to the highest points, this time at the residential castle and the Münzenberg, an old mint, and looked down at the town and valley below.

I made a wish as I tossed a coin into the helpfully labelled wishing well . . .

. . . and delighted in signs of spring as two people I love laughed together.

We didn’t see any witches, but passed multiple shops with tarot cards and crystals; we spent the evening at a local brewery and tasted the offerings; we took shelter in driving rain, basked in the sun when it came out, and pulled our jackets tightly against the winter temperatures that had come to visit again.

Quedlinburg was a walk back through time, the delight of which was a treat to experience and a real pleasure to share. It didn’t take us more than our two half-days there to walk up every street and down every alley, and we laughed at our ongoing surprise as the windy streets twisted and turned. As we reflected, an invading army wouldn’t have stood a chance.

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