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Travel Guide: Ho Chi Minh City

This trip was my first solo travel experience. We didn’t plan it that way, but Mitch wasn’t able to come at the last minute so I made the trip to Vietnam by myself. I am not a person who does well alone; I’ve written about that before. I am not a person who travels to foreign countries alone. But, this weekend, I became a person who can do that and do it well. This whole Malaysia experience has taught me that I’m a lot braver and more adventurous than I thought I was. To be quite honest, I have to be grateful to Malaysia for helping me grow into a stronger, more independent woman.

And onto the trip!

I absolutely loved Ho Chi Minh City, still better known as Saigon. (The airport code is SGN – how cool is that?!) The French influence in Ho Chi Minh, and in District 1 in particular, is obvious everywhere, from tree-lined boulevards with sidewalks and numerous public parks to a plethora of cafes. Anywhere with coffee culture holds a special place in my heart. There are aspects of Ho Chi Minh City, too, that make it distinctly Asian – more people have motorcycles than cars, traffic lights are in short supply, and when stuck in traffic, many bikers prefer to ride on the sidewalks. The gallery below contains general shots of the city. Then, I’ll get into specifics about what I saw.

My first stop was the War Remnants Museum, formerly known as the Museum of American War Crimes, which tells you basically everything you need to know about the museum’s bias and perspective. Since I’m an American History teacher, I can’t say that anything in the museum surprised me, but it was very interesting to see the Vietnam War (they don’t name the war in English, but multiple museums referred to it as the “war against US aggression”) presented from the other side. I took pictures of a few exhibit explanations and quotations posted on the walls to share with my students the next time I teach the war. (Sorry, not going to display those here – shoot me a message if you’re interested.)

Independence Palace, also known as Reunification Palace, was my next stop. I have to admit that I was less than thorough in my exploration due to stifling heat, oppressive humidity, and lack of air conditioning. Since I’m much more used to the architecture of old European palaces, it was interesting to see a modern palace. My photos of the interior didn’t come out very well because I wasn’t using the flash, but I did get some decent shots of the coolest part of the palace, which was the bunker in the basement. The bunker acted as a command center during the war and was completely equipped for people to stay for extended periods of time. The old radio equipment (ironically supplied by the US when Ngo Dinh Diem was in power) was fascinating.

The Central Post Office is famous for its interior (old French maps, phone booths) and is a popular spot to take wedding photos! The massive portrait of Uncle Ho (so called by numerous posters around the city and explanations in museums) surprised me.

Central Post Office with newly married couple! Central Post Office Uncle Ho

Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica, built by the French in 1880, is located on the same square as the post office. Most of it was closed to visitors and reserved for people praying, which I really liked. Again, no flash so not the best photos.

To see the Saigon River, I walked down a wonderful street called Dong Khoi. While in that area, I had a cup of coffee (one of many) and window shopped in all the little boutiques. I returned to that area Saturday night for dinner and drinks. I didn’t see the river by night, but I saw it as the sun was beginning to set.

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By night, I did see . . .

The Opera House
The Opera House
People's Committee Hall (not sure what this does or is supposed to do and my guidebook didn't have anything to say about it)
People’s Committee Hall (not sure what this does or is supposed to do and my guidebook didn’t have anything to say about it)

Sunday morning I went to Ben Thanh Market. The chaos and odor of Asian wet markets no longer surprises me, and I am no longer rattled by vendors constantly calling after visitors to purchase this or that. Instead, I simply enjoyed the people-watching and the coffee.

I also ventured to the Fine Arts Museum, intriguing because I have no experience with Asian art. Interestingly, the museum was un-air conditioned and very few of the pieces were protected by glass. I don’t know anything about art conservation, but I can’t imagine that’s good for the art. The Ho Chi Minh City Museum was also excellent. This is where I found a collection of actual artifacts from the Vietnam War. The War Remnants Museum told its story in photos, but this is where newspapers, uniforms, weapons, official documents, old uniforms, and ingenious objects like a boat with a false bottom are housed.

Despite all that I saw and did, I can’t say I really feel that I experienced Vietnam. When Mitch and I were in Bangkok in November, I thought I understood how people in Thailand really live. I don’t have the same feeling about Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City, or whatever you want to call it. All of my exploring took place in District 1, which I know is incredibly Western and the most frequented by tourists. Next time, I’d love to take a boat up the Mekong River to see fishing villages (friends did this and their photos were wonderful), I want to see the pagodas in Chinatown, and I really want to go to Hanoi. Obviously, there’s a lot out there; hopefully I’ll get to see and learn more!

Safe travels!

Moments

These are some photos I took last week. Enjoy!

Friday morning sunrise
Friday morning sunrise

We’ve been having a ton of rain lately, which is good because Malaysia was in a drought last year but also bad because the dry season should have stated about 6 weeks ago. Meanwhile, it’s the end of March and still snowing back at home. Climate change, anyone?

It rained on our entire drive to Melaka on Saturday, but Mitch and I were rewarded for our perseverance in my Kancil by a beautiful sunset.

A river runs through it
A river runs through Melaka on Saturday evening. Wherever I go, I look for water. Water makes me feel at home.

Mitch and I spent Saturday night wandering down Jonker Street and through Melaka’s night market eating satay and sweets and browsing shops and stands. We also stopped for a real meal and affordable cocktails at the delicious, vegetarian-friendly Geographér Café.

Thai tom yam coconut soup, beautifully presented in a cocount!
Thai tom yam coconut soup, beautifully presented in a cocount!
There are many temples (and churches!) scattered through the UNESCO area of Malacca. This is one we passed on the way back to the car, which we had parked in Little India.
There are many temples (and churches!) scattered through the UNESCO area of Malacca. This is one we passed on the way back to the car, which we had parked in Little India.

Chinese New Year Travels

Happy Chinese New Year! The Year of the Horse has gone and we are now in the Year of the Goat. Most countries in Southeast Asia have a day or two off for CNY and because I’m a teacher, I have more. (Don’t be jealous.) I flew to Singapore early Wednesday afternoon and Mitch flew back to Malaysia with me Saturday afternoon. He left today, Monday, and I return to school tomorrow. I feel relaxed and refreshed, though sad to say goodbye to Mitch. We haven’t spent this long together since going to Spain with my family over Christmas. Before, we hadn’t spend that long together since he left Malaysia in October. We are getting rather tired of so much distance.

Going to Singapore over Chinese New Year is a bit like coming to the US over Thanksgiving – for a day or two, everything is closed, streets are quiet, and most people are spending time with their families. Luckily, Singapore has expats, constant tourism, and such a large expat community that there were more than enough places for us to eat and wander around. I’ve been to Singapore four times now and I really enjoy just meandering through different areas and exploring places that real Singaporeans frequent. Having Mitch as a quasi-local is definitely helpful!

Speaking of local experiences, I went to a 24-hour health clinic while in Singapore to get my eye checked out. Last week it was red and swollen for a couple days and got better so I thought everything was fine. It flared up again the first night I was in Singapore so we headed to the doctor in the morning. I have two types of eyedrops that I’m using now, so hopefully that will clear everything up.

One of our impromptu destinations this time, largely because we couldn’t remember the name of the MRT stop for the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, was the Singapore Botanical Gardens. Everyone who wasn’t having a family meal was picnicking under trees, playing Frisbee on open fields, or running on winding paths through the different gardens.

SBG

Really cool plants

Big lily pads!

Fun fact: Turtles spend time out of water! Look!

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We watched the turle leave its shelter among the tree roots, cross a footpath, and make its way down a small bank. We didn’t wait to see if it made it safely into the water; turtles are slow.

Singapore, like Kuala Lumpur, is home to numerous independent coffee shops and cafes that roast their own beans and are eager to teach their customers about it. We started exploring coffee culture in KL a few months ago and Mitch has done the same in Singapore. This picture from Singapore’s Common Man Coffee Roasters pretty much sums up what we’re looking for:

How can you not love a place that serves coffee like this?
How can you not love a place that serves coffee like this?

One day when both Mitch and I are employed, we’ll treat ourselves to Common Man’s food. Reading the descriptions of some Middle Eastern-inspired brunch items on the menu made my mouth water.

Happily, we did find brunch specials in other parts of the Robertson Quay neighborhood. We walked around hoping for less expensive food than they serve at the Common Man, but honestly didn’t have much hope in finding any. To give you an idea of the neighborhood, consider this: In a city that limits the number of cars allowed at any one time, there’s no MRT station within a 20 minute walk. Still confused? Think about the type of people who don’t need public transit . . . because they have cars . . . In short, Robertson Quay is far from affordable for most people. It sure is pretty, though!

Roberton Quay

A number of the restaurants serve breakfast all day or until mid-afternoon, so that’s definitely the way to go when watching one’s wallet. There’s less of a mark-up on eggs.

Back in Malaysia, however, Mitch and I are able to smile at the prices – they’re often nominally the same in ringgit and dollars, giving us much more purchasing power. Mitch doesn’t have a functional kitchen in his apartment so we shared the cooking at my apartment, which we always enjoyed at home. We made some darn good food, too! You can take a look at the tantalizing lists of ingredients here, here, and here. Some creative substituting was required; there’s no Wegmans here and Cold Storage is in KL 😦

We went up to KL on Sunday to visit Antipodean Coffee in the Bangsar neighborhood. I highly recommend, both for their brunch and the coffee! I’ll probably be back there next weekend, to be honest. Bangsar Village is home to a plethora of unique cafes, boutiques, shops, restaurants, and bars. It’s basically everything I hoped I’d find when moving to Malaysia and it’s everything I miss living in Seremban. There’s even a farmer’s market nearby!

Farmer's market
You pick your produce, put it in baskets, give the baskets to the farmers, and then pay by weight!
Lots of leafy greens
Lots of leafy greens

Food, coffee, greenery, relaxation made for a  happy Chinese New Year for me. Happy Year of the Goat!